Art & Design
7:29 am
Sat December 3, 2011

Liz Taylor's Jewel-Dripping Collection On The Block

Originally published on Wed May 23, 2012 10:12 am

Celebrity auctions have become common, but once in a while there's an event that will make almost anyone stand up and take notice. After a world tour, the entire collection of Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry, clothing and memorabilia is on view starting Saturday at Christie's auction house in New York City.

After 10 days, there will be a four-day auction. Some 2,000 objects from the film star's life will be on the block, both at Christie's and online.

'Gutsy, Glamorous'

Behind a glass wall, an area has been decked out as if it were Taylor's walk-in closet. At least 80 handbags, out of more than 200, are arranged by color — one shelf violet going to purple, another various reds, another browns. Shoes and boots are on the floor; drawers are open with jewelry dripping out of them.

"Gutsy, glamorous; wish I'd met her," says Meredith Etherington-Smith, who curated the fashion part of this exhibit.

And why the faux closet? "Because that was what her house looked like," Etherington-Smith says. "She kept everything immaculately."

There are clothes from every designer you can think of, in perfect condition: a red velvet Valentino ball gown, a Dior organza jacket in white with delicate handmade flowers. There are also wild colors. In one corner there's what Etherington-Smith calls "a cast of kaftans," some in historic fabrics.

"A lot of them were made by Thea Porter," she says, "who used to go around the Middle East, finding fabrics, and then reassembling them as kaftans. The three heavily embroidered groups are antique Ottoman. So that was when Ms. Taylor was going through a sort of modified hippie phase."

A Girl's Best Friend

Most extraordinary is the jewelry: diamonds, sapphires, rubies. Many of them are gifts from the two of her seven husbands whom she loved most: actor Richard Burton, whom she married twice, and theater and film producer, Mike Todd.

Daphne Lingon, a senior vice president in the jewelry department of Christie's stands before a case filled with emeralds, almost all of them gifts from Burton. She points out a brooch of emeralds and diamonds.

"That was an engagement present in 1962 from Richard Burton," she says. "It was also worn when she married him in 1964, in Montreal on her yellow chiffon dress."

That yellow dress is only footsteps away.

There is also the 33-carat diamond ring, conservatively estimated to go for between $2.5 million and $3.5 million. Perhaps most amazing is the 16th-century La Peregrina, one of the most perfect, largest pear-shaped pearls in the world, found in paintings by Velasquez and once part of the crown jewels of Spain.

Thoroughly Curated

Rahul Kadakia is head of the jewelry department at Christie's. He says since the late 1700s Christie's has sold the greatest collections of jewels: from Doris Duke, Princess Margaret, the Queen of Italy, on and on.

"They are all great collections, but never have we seen a collection that is as complete and as curated as this one," he says.

There are the finest Burmese rubies, the finest diamonds, the finest Colombian emeralds, Kadakia says. Taylor, he says, was a great curator.

"It was not just the jewel, it was the design, it was the person who made the jewelry," Kadakia says. "You think of every great jewelry house in the world, she had something from all of them."

Officially, it is estimated that the auction will bring in around $50 million. Each item has been priced as if Taylor never owned it, though, so privately people are saying the $3.5 million diamond ring could go for $7 million and so forth. It's all on view for the next 10 days — more opulent than the tree at Rockefeller Center, 100 yards away.

"It's like going to a museum, really, isn't it? ... You just have to kind of take a step back," Etherington-Smith says.

All proceeds from the four-day auction will go to Taylor's estate, with a portion going to her AIDS Foundation.

Copyright 2013 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.

Transcript

SCOTT SIMON, HOST:

This is WEEKEND EDITION from NPR News. I'm Scott Simon.

Celebrity auctions have become pretty common, but once in a while there's still a real event. The entire collection of Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry, clothing and memorabilia is on view starting today at Christies Auction House in New York. There will be a four day auction, starting on December 13; some 2,000 objects from the film star's life will be on the block, both at Christies and online.

NPR's Margot Adler has more.

(SOUNDBITE OF CONVERSATIONS)

MARGOT ADLER, BYLINE: I'm standing in front of a glass wall, looking into an area that has been decked out as if it was Elizabeth Taylor's walk-in closet. At least 80 hand bags, out of more than 200, are arranged by color; one shelf violet going to purple, another reds, another browns. Shoes and boots on the floor, drawers open with jewelry dripping out of them.

Meredith Etherington-Smith has curated the fashion part of this exhibit. Of Taylor, she says...

MEREDITH ETHERINGTON-SMITH: Gutsy, glamorous, I wish I'd met her.

ADLER: And why this faux closet?

ETHERINGTON-SMITH: Because that was what her house looked like. She kept everything immaculately.

ADLER: Then, clothes from every designer you can think of, in perfect condition: a red velvet Valentino ball gown, a Dior organza jacket in white with delicate handmade flowers. But also wild colors, in one corner what Etherington-Smith calls a cast of kaftans, some in historic fabrics.

ETHERINGTON-SMITH: A lot of them were made by Thea Porter, who used to go around the Middle East, finding fabrics, and then reassembling them as kaftans. The three heavily embroidered groups are antique Ottoman. So that was when Ms. Taylor was going through her sort of modified hippie phase.

ADLER: But most extraordinary, the jewelry: diamonds, sapphires, rubies, many of them gifts from the two of her seven husbands she loved best: Actor Richard Burton, who she married twice and theatre and film producer, Mike Todd.

Daphne Lingon, a senior vice president in the jewelry department of Christies is standing with me before a case filled with emeralds, almost all of them gifts from Richard Burton.

DAPHNE LINGON: The emerald and diamond pendant broach, that hangs from the necklace - that was an engagement present in 1962 from Richard Burton. And it was also worn when she married him in 1964 in Montréal - on her yellow chiffon dress.

ADLER: The one that's over there, the yellow chiffon dress that we're looking right at over there.

LINGON: Exactly. And then the emerald and diamond necklace from which it is suspended, that was the wedding gift in 1964.

ADLER: There is also the 33-carat diamond ring, conservatively estimated to go for between two and a half and three and a half million dollars. And perhaps most amazing, the 16th century La Peregrina, one of the most perfect, largest pear shaped pearls in the world, found in paintings by Velasquez, once part of the crown jewels of Spain.

Ruhul Kadakia is head of the jewelry department at Christies. He says since the late 1700s Christies has sold the greatest collections of jewels; Doris Duke, Princess Margaret, the Queen of Italy, on and on.

RUHUL KADAKIA: And they are all great collections, but never have we seen a collection that's as complete and as curated as this one.

ADLER: The finest Burmese rubies, the finest diamonds, the finest Columbian emeralds. And what does he means by saying she was a great curator.

KADAKIA: It was not just the jewel, it was the design, it was the person who made the jewelry. You think of every great jewelry house in the world, she had something from all of them.

ADLER: While the official estimates are that the auction will bring in around $50 million, everything has been priced as if Elizabeth Taylor never owned it. So privately, people say the three and a half million dollar diamond ring could go for seven and so on. It's all on view for the next 10 days - more opulent than the tree at Rockefeller Center, a hundred yards away.

As Etherington-Smith put it...

ETHERINGTON-SMITH: It's like going to a museum, really. Isn't it? You know, you just have to kind of take a step back.

ADLER: All proceeds from the four-day auction will go to Taylor's estate, with a portion going to her Aids Foundation.

Margot Adler, NPR News, New York. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.

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